Simple text editors are nothing new to the Mac (TextEdit, the default text editor is a testament to this), but for a purely distraction-free writing experience nothing compares to Byword. From the developers at metaclassy comes a beautiful designed editor, clearly inspired from the shift towards simplicity and user friendliness has made the iPhone and iPad industry leading designs.
The premise is simple, you need to put text to the page and nothing else. To do that you need isolation from everything else. Byword runs fullscreen by default, dimming it's two button interface (a search and a fullscreen toggle) to provide you with only the words and the paper. Running in a window removes little from the experience, with no toolbars to take up valuable screen space. To make the experience that much better, Byword uses the beautiful Cochin font family which compliments the simplicity perfectly. You can of course edit this, as well as a few other text options in the settings if required.
One of the most inspired features is an iOS popover that you can toggle when selecting words, this appears when in rich text mode and allows you to change the basic style of the text without having an additional menu at the top. Saving space and only appearing when you need it. You can also use the myriad of keyboard shortcuts to change any feature of the text without using the mouse at all.
Another distraction remover is the focus feature that automatically dims text that is outside of the range selected, this can be anywhere from the same line to the entire paragraph, allowing you to focus only on the writing.
Search is as simple as it gets. Press the shortcut (or click the button), type and you're done. Replacing couldn't be easier, simply select replace in the context menu, type what you need to replace and what with and once again, you're done.
However, there are a few flaws that come into play when using Byword. One of which is the focus mode becoming deactivated when moving the mouse, and the entire text coming into focus and going back out immediately. This is extremely prevalent with accidental presses of the trackpad and can be become distracting. Also, although the iOS style popover is a great addition it provides no easy use with the keyboard, forcing you to go back to the mouse in a primarily keyboard focused application.
Even with these small annoyances, Byword is an excellent tool for writers and bloggers that can't seem to help being distracted.
Byword is available now for $2.99, rising in price $1 every 3 days. So if you are thinking of buying, act fast before the offer ends.
Now the FaceTime for Mac has been released, you can assign a contact a FaceTime shortcut that whenever you click it, opens that number or email in the FaceTime application. To add such a shortcut you need to add a facetime://xxx link to a new field in the Address Book. This can be a bit difficult so here's a small tutorial.
Printed photographs are a great way to show friends and family memories of the past. There's nothing quite like passing around photos and reminiscing with children or elders of the snapshots of times gone by. However, with the move to portable, experience devices such as the iPad, it makes sense to immortalise these memories into a digital format.
A few months ago I took it upon myself to start of project of scanning and digitalising over 800 photos spanning 30 years of our family. This proves a brilliant opportunity to gain a better perspective on my (as well as my parent's) upbringing and really helped to get the family together. Here's a few pointers to anyone out there that wants to embark on the same journey.
Prepare
One of the main goals was to digitalise every photo we had. This turned out to be whole bags full. So make sure you are certain you've found all of the photos, whether these are in the attic, under the stairs, or wherever you keep them. Combine them all to allow yourself time to get through them.
Likewise, make sure you do have adequate time. This will most likely take a full day to complete, possibly two for work that needs to be done on the computer afterwards. Make these days free from all other activities to ensure you don't get distracted by anything else and leave photos lying around the place.
Organisation
From different events, sizes and just making sure we knew which ones we had already scanned, make sure you have a method that suits you. Mine was to first organise them by size (as to why will become obvious in the next section), and then by whether I'd scanned them or not. By taking roughly 20 at a time and keeping neat piles vastly helped getting through them.
Know You Scanner
To make sure you optimise the amount of scanning space that your scanner can do at once, take a few practice scans. For example, on my own there's a faulty line that runs down the side of the scanning bed. Unfortunately, I only noticed this half way through causing many of the scans to be effectively ruined. Use practice scans to find and avoid any of these zones.
As I mentioned before, by organising by size you can place your photos easily on the screen knowing exactly how many can fit at once and to keep a time estimate of how long to completion.
Listen to the scanner to realise when it has completed scanning and when the scanner is simply sending the image and returning the scan light to the beginning. This way you can the time to replace the photos with new ones without harming anything, saving you a lot of time.
Speed
Scanning hundreds or possibly thousands of photos can immediately appear a massive time sink. However, with a few key concepts you can speed this up dramatically. These include:
DPI - The DPI a scanner setting that determines how large (and therefore longer to scan and longer transfer) the scan will be. Print DPI is 300, which should be the default setting. You can safely turn this down to 150 without losing any noticeable detail.
Ethernet - More than likely you have your scanner set up over WiFi. The speed of transferring images is much slower and less effective this way. It's much faster to set up an ethernet or USB connection direct from the printer to the scanner. Use whatever method you originally set the scanner with but this time with the WiFi turned off and wires plugged in.
Photo Swapping - Mentioned earlier, you can use the time that the scanner is 'pulling back' the scanning light (it only scans one way) to replace the photos on the glass with new ones ready to scan again. This allows a continual scanning process.
Software - I used the Mac HP scanning software that has a single button to scan with virtually no bells or whistles. By using the simplest scanning software that works you can quickly get through the stack without pushing a lot of buttons.
Press, scan, replace, repeat - By getting into a rhythm of how the scanning process works, you can easily keep create a continual stream that maximises productivity of the scanning.
Post Processing
With the batches of photos scanned into the computer, you may notice that many are rotated the wrong way, are glaringly dark or have rips that weren't obvious in the physical version. To amend this, we have to split the batched images into their separate individual photos and fix any graphical errors.
For the software on this part I used the Mac program Pixelmator and the built in Preview for smaller corrections. However, you can just as easily use any image manipulation program such as Photoshop.
For the most part, you will have to split the images (assuming you put more that one on the scanner at a time) into the component photos. Just crop, rotate and save into a format you are comfortable with.
Again, get into a rhythm of splitting and saving every photo with some sort of naming convention (e.g. increasing numbers). You can go over the bad ones separately at a later time.
Other Hints and Tips
Avoid looking at the photos. I know this may seem anti intuitive to not look at the photos, but I found that I could be too easily distracted by them or would purposefully skip ones that put me in a negative light. By sorting them upside down, you can simply scan them all in and then look at them later when you have more time.
Transfer any notes. If like myself, you have dates or other information written on the back of your photos, make sure to transfer them across. Whether this is the folder name for multiple images or each name with a different note. This really helps to keep a grip on the what's what.
Share them! Once completed, feel free to share them with any friends or relatives that you may not have seen in a while or who've moved away. A shared memory can be a great way to reconnect with old friends or family members. Of course, if you don't want that one image of you sitting in the bathtub when you were three circulating the internet, you should share with caution.
Storage. Now that you have all of the physical photos together, it would be a good time to find a permanent home for them where they won't get lost, damaged or forgotten.
With these useful suggestions, I hope you get the most out importing all of your photos into the digital world. If you have any pointers of your own, do post in the comments below.
The iPhone 4's retina display makes it a real beauty to display great looking artwork on you lockscreen. Unfortunately, it can be a pain to find images that are set out in a way that allows the focus to shine through the middle as opposed to slider or clock bars.
iTunes is a great way to organise and store your movies, TV shows and music. The iTunes playlists offer an extensive range of sorting methods that can be used to find music that you wouldn't otherwise listen to. Or, if you wish, sort the wheat from the chaff and find your favourite songs from potentially thousands.
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